Cauliflower: The Food of Love
WHEN Michael Anthony, the executive chef at the Gramercy Tavern, met Mindy Dubin, an artist, in 2004, he discovered that she didn’t like cauliflower. It was a stab in his heart and stomach.
So he embarked on what he calls the “cauliflower operation,” creating at least five dishes solely to woo her. This one — thick golden slices of roasted cauliflower sprinkled lightly with capers, toasted almonds and raisins plumped in white wine vinegar — was one of the best.
His plan worked: thanks in part to it, he and Ms. Dubin wed in 2007.
His bride secured, Mr. Anthony decided to put all that vegetable-cooking to use at Gramercy Tavern. When he started there in 2006, he had noticed that a signature dish was a grilled vegetable sandwich.
“The sandwich had been there somewhere shy of forever, and a lot of people connected with it,” he said; customers saw it “as a go-to source of comfort.”
He decided that he, too, wanted to make dishes that customers would not only crave for the moment, but remember. He analyzed the grilled vegetable sandwich, and stripped away the bread and the cheese. Not too surprisingly, what ended up on the plate was this cauliflower creation, embellished with a dusting of toasted bread crumbs. “Is there anything more seductive than toasty crunch?” Mr. Anthony asked.
Cauliflower With Almonds, Capers and Raisins
Time: 45 minutes
1 head cauliflower, trimmed of leaves
1 1/2 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons fresh soft bread crumbs
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons whole almonds
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons golden raisins
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and drained
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
1 teaspoon finely chopped tarragon
1 teaspoon finely sliced chives.
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cut cauliflower from top to bottom in 1-inch slices. Place a large ovenproof skillet over low heat and add 1 tablespoon butter. When it has melted, add bread crumbs and toss until toasted and golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer crumbs to a plate and wipe out pan.1 1/2 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons fresh soft bread crumbs
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons whole almonds
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons golden raisins
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and drained
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
1 teaspoon finely chopped tarragon
1 teaspoon finely sliced chives.
2. Return pan to medium heat and add 1 teaspoon olive oil. Add almonds and toss until lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Season lightly with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer almonds to a plate, let cool, and cut each almond into three pieces; set aside.
3. Wipe out pan and return to medium heat. Add remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and cauliflower slices. Sauté until lightly browned on both sides. Transfer pan to oven and roast until tender, about 12 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan over low heat, melt remaining 1/2 tablespoon butter and add raisins, vinegar and 1 tablespoon water. Simmer until raisins are plump and soft, about 5 minutes; drain and set aside. In a small bowl, combine almonds, capers, raisins, parsley, tarragon and chives. Season with salt and pepper and toss to mix.
4. Arrange roasted cauliflower on a serving platter. Spoon almond-herb mixture evenly on top and sprinkle with toasted bread crumbs. Serve immediately.
Yield: 4 servings.
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